Saturday, July 12, 2014

Several New Projects



Hello Gentle Stitchers, I apologize for being away for so long. I have been busy piling up new projects, two smocked nightgowns, a baby dress and a beautiful silk ribbon project. On top of all that, I haven't finished my son's shirt and I'm learning to tat. I've wanted to learn this ever since I found the Baby Bonnet.  Above is one of my first miserable efforts. The left pair are supposed to be identical to each other (counting problem), and the right group should have the outer two rings identical (tension problem, but at least I got the counting right).


This effort is slightly better, but I had a joining problem (as in I forgot to join the ring), so I cut it out and will start over. This is supposed to be a tiny doily with 14 rings, both large and small, in a circle. The blue marks are supposed to mark the distance of the thread, but as you can see I'm not consistent. I think the earlier distances are 1/2 inch as opposed to the correct 1/4 inch.


We are learning to tat with DMC Cordonnet Special Size 10, the top thread in the photo above. Compare this to the actual DMC Tatting Thread, Size 80. That is really, really, tiny thread, and it will be a while before I get to it.  I am learning tatting by taking a class from the Los Alamitos Community Center, from a wonderfully fine teacher who is very experienced in various forms of needlework and is a member of the Long Beach Chapter of EGA. I've been practicing every day and am getting better, but still have a very long way to go. This is very addictive, and fun. It will be even more fun once I get a little something completed, more or less correctly.

Once I get all the other projects sorted out I'll start posting on them. I have way too many projects going on, and on top of that Mr. California Stitching finally retired for good. Having him around seems to take up more of my time, does anyone else see that happening in your lives? And on top of everything, we have another leak in my new hardwood floor in the living room. The dryers are going all day, the cat is jittery and so am I. I just need to keep telling myself that it's only money, it's not like someone is hurt or sick. Who knew that wood floors could be disposable?

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Shirtmaking, Part 2


As I mentioned several months ago in Shirtmaking Part 1, I had planned a shopping trip to the LA fabric district to buy some shirt fabric. My son wanted a dark blue, and here it is. As it turns out, this fabric is quite stretchy in the crosswise grain, so I added a strip of selvedge to stabilize the top of the pocket. I also added a strip to the bottom of the yoke where it joins with the back.

Warning: These pictures are very difficult to see due to the dark fabric. Don't try to stare too hard, I don't want you to get a headache from my blog! This fabric is navy blue, and notoriously hard to photograph, especially close ups by someone with no photographic skills whatsoever.


I've always been fascinated by the plackets on tailored shirts, but as it turns out, they aren't as difficult as they would seem. You just need to take it slowly, mark, cut and sew very carefully. This is the cut out and marked placket,


Made from this pattern, from Shirtmaking, by David Page Cotton. In it he has this placket and several collar variations which you can copy and use. The tower on this placket is taller than the one from the original pattern, Simplicity 1544, and I like it a bit better.


Here the placket is pinned to the shirt.


Both plackets sewn and topstitched in place. Not perfect, but not bad either. The bar tack on the right placket certainly could be a bit straighter.


This photo was taken with a flash, so while the color is washed out, you can see the detail much better. Sewing shirts is certainly an exercise in precision sewing, and I figure the more I make, the better I'll get. That's the plan, anyway.

Now on to sleeves.


Tuesday, May 27, 2014

I Forgot the Pockets!


It's the day after Memorial Day and I have finally wandered into the sewing room. I never once set foot in it over the weekend as I've been busy with gardening. But as you 50 or 60 somethings know you can't garden several days in a row and still be able to walk. So I'm taking a break today.

I've been wearing my new robe now for the past two weeks and it's been driving me crazy! Why? Because as the title of the post says, I forgot to add pockets to it. So I dug up the scraps of facing, some interfacing and lace, and made two pockets. They are 8 inches (20 cm) wide by 7 inches (18 cm) tall, with facings of 8 inches (20 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm) tall. I interfaced half the facing, so it won't wrinkle so much. My current winter robe does this as it also has patch pockets and I find it really annoying.


So there it is! Perfect for my Kindle. I kept trying to put the Kindle in the pocket when there wasn't one there and catching myself just in time to keep it from dropping to the floor. Now I'm all set.

OK, no more robe posts. This thing is done! Now on to my son's shirt, which has its own challenges.

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Blue Gingham Robe is Finished!


When we last left the Blue Gingham Robe project, I was contemplating smocking the skirt where it meets the bodice. Unfortunately, the skirt just isn't full enough to be able to pull the smocking stitches even moderately tightly. This is how it looks, UGH! So out it went.


The completed robe! To make the bodice look just a bit more finished, I added some of the Swiss embroidery to it, by cutting off the batiste and topstitching right through the entredeux.


Love those buttons! They really aren't sewn on that wonky, they just twisted a bit when I buttoned the robe. I'm so glad this is finished with summer on the way.

Next up: a shirt for my son, and guess which color! Right you are, it will be blue. We are also starting a nightgown project in our SAGA chapter, and I want to figure out how to incorporate some of the blue gingham into it. I would also like to get the Celtic Hearts Blanket out, but the temps are in the high 90s all week and just the thought of handling wool makes me reach for the iced tea. This is our second heat wave already in May. I hope the rest of the summer won't be like this.

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Progress on the Blue Robe





I have made a bit of progress on the robe. Here you can see the bodice attached to the skirt. I pleated the skirt with five half space rows and will add a bit of smocking to the top two or three rows. I haven't decided what kind, or even what color, but will get to that eventually. I think white might be best as it will go nicely with the embroidered edge. The pleating is very loose as the skirt only has a moderate fullness. Even if I was not intending on smocking, pleating is a very good way to gather fabric, especially if you are good at pleating, which I am not. But I do need to improve my pleating skills so this helps. It took me three times before I got it right.


I added the embroidery on the sleeves, that button above the sleeve is just visiting from another project.


Close up in which you can see the finish on the edging. I trimmed the edges to a scant 3/8 inch (1.5 cm) and rolled and whipped the edge. Then I topstitched the bit of the seam allowance down so it won't wiggle around and fold over on the embroidery edge.

I'm afraid that's all for now. I should be able to get the sleeves in today and start thinking about smocking.

Note: For those of you who follow Bunny of La Sewista! she will be taking attending a Claire Shaeffer workshop in Palm Springs (only a two hour drive from here) on the Chanel Jacket. I had no idea she was so close, and am tentatively planning on attending the January session.  I can't make it the May session as I am taking a class at our local community college and the final is the week after the Jacket class. I don't want to jeopardize my good grade so late in the semester. At any rate, I am really looking forward to Bunny's posts of her class and the jacket she will be making.




Wednesday, April 16, 2014

New Project - Summer Robe


Last time I mentioned an emergency sewing project, well here it is. This is my summer robe, a lovely pink seersucker with Swiss embroidery edging the collar and sleeves.


Some time ago, I had a run in with this. No problem, just a quick mend and you can barely see it.


Now that it's spring I've started wearing the robe, the evil door handle struck again, and I have this. It's way too hard to patch very well, plus there are some stains on the robe that I just can't get out. I have to stop cooking in my robe, or at least wear an apron.


Quite a few years ago I bought this blue gingham seersucker fabric, which is perfect for a lightweight summer robe. Out of my stash of lace I found this Swiss embroidery (it's actually white, not ivory).


A quick search on line and I found this robe/nightgown pattern Butterick 5544. View C has a quilted bodice, sleeves, front and hem band. I'll make this using the sleeves and bodice from B, eliminating the bands.  The skirt is gathered, so I think I'll try to add some smocking to it. Also, I think I'll use German interfacing for the bodice, front band and maybe the sleeve facings at the wrist. On the old robe the front facings always got very wrinkled and I really disliked that.


The original robe is from Eileen West, with her monogram on the back facing. I love the idea, and if you remember by granddaughter's pjs, you'll see her monogram on the back facing.


The pattern calls for a self lined bodice, but I'll use a white voile to keep it from being too heavy. Here is my monogram, obviously machine made. I did use Mettler No. 60 embroidery thread for the embroidery and water soluble stabilizer. I don't like the shine from rayon threads on a cotton garment and I don't want any bits of paper stabilizer sticking to the embroidery and not washing out for a couple of years.




Saturday, April 12, 2014

A Break in the Piecework


I've finally finished sewing all the extra triangles I had cut for my Blue and Cream Quilt, and I'm left with this pile of blocks and pieces. For specific inventory, I have


Two each of this block, which I will call the large blue star and is 12 inches (30.5 cm) square.


Eight each of this block, the large cream star, also 12 inches (30.5 cm).


Twenty of this block, my wrongly sewn Rising Star. If it slipped your mind, you can see that the innermost triangles are opposite of what they should be. It is also 12 inches (30.5 cm) square.


Forty each of the small blue star and the small cream star, both 6 inches (15 cm) square.


Eighty-six of the flying geese for the small blue star, this amount will make 21 6 inch (15 cm) blocks.


And finally, 94 of the flying geese for the small cream star, which is enough for 23 6 inch (15 cm) blocks.

Now, what to make with all this? Twenty 12 inch (30.5 cm) blocks will make a nice lap quilt, especially if I add a small border. So that takes care of the wrongly sewn Rising Star blocks. Then I could take enough of the small blue and cream stars and make them into large blue and cream stars so that I have ten each, and that will make another lap quilt. Then I could sew enough of the flying geese blocks into 6 in (15 cm) star blocks to total 40 of each color, and make yet another lap quilt. Actually I would need 80 blocks each, but I could intersperse the stars with squares of blue or cream. That would still leave quite a few of the flying geese left over, but I think they would be perfect for pillowcase hems. I might even have enough for some pillow shams, but I think that's getting a bit busy. Plain cream pillowcases with the flying geese hems might be enough. Still, that's three lap quilts which are quite a few. Maybe I should make one lap quilt and a full? I do need to play around with layouts to see what would work.

At any rate, they are all trimmed, sorted and bagged, just waiting to be sewn. It's time to put them away for a bit, as I have an emergency project to do right now. Also, I have gone too long without embroidery, and I'm feeling the itch to get back to it. The large quilt from this post has been sent to the quilter, and I won't see it again for about a month.

Next time, emergency sewing project, or maybe back to embroidery.